The annoying thing is that in Thailand it is ok to cheat because the cheats are correct, to use David's words. You just can't cheat. It is not an easy book to cook from. Unlike most Aussie Thai restaurants at the time, David did everything in the traditional manner using his new found knowledge - no hisses as curry paste jars or coconut milk tins were opened for him.

The recipes are authentic and in time it will be considered a classic. David's advice to me on setting up a little street food cart in Australia was to go with something that used a special Thai fermented noodle mentioned in his book. And I'm going to make the Laksa from his new book even if it takes me all weekend.

He used the Squid brand until he came across this one. I'm certainly going to give it a go should it ever hit the shelves here in Australia. This is because the primary effect of taking in David's words at an impressionable age is that he breaks your brain. So is David's Stir Fried Rice Noodles with Chicken and Chinese Broccoli, which takes less time than a pasta dish and can be the best part of your day. As Thailand was not big on cookbooks, he had to continue his education by spending time with the old women who made the best food. He had opened Sailors Thai in the Rocks, and for many years he worked on what was pretty well the only Thai cookbook in English worth owning: Thai Food. www.australianbeers.com/beers/interview/davidthompson/dt.htm

It was quite a sight as I know how long it takes to cook a meal for 4.

The coconut milk has been made from coconuts just that day. Of course I would. I have met him a few times over the years - at his classes and for the interview most recently.

The curry pastes available on the streets have been pounded for hours using authentic ingredients. David uses it to present traditional Thai food in the most authentic matter - without regard to the views of the London diners. I asked if they were available in Australia and he said generally not, but of course, if I were running my own cart, I would make them myself. To some this confronts and confuses, to others it is a sensual delight so far removed from the traditional English stodge of their childhood it is unbelievable. At one demonstration he had the biggest pestle and mortar you have ever seen. This was before Sydney fell in love with Thai food, and so it really was a treat for those Sydneysiders that dared abandon their British heritage after a few drinks. Perhaps I'll go with the grilled green bananas!David has also associated his name with a new fish sauce - Megachef. He glugged in fish sauce by the bottle, chatting as he went. He spent his days and nights pounding, scraping, chopping and smoking to bring his customers and Australia Thai flavours and authenticity like they had never known it.Fast forward more than a decade and is fair to say David had mastered his craft. It is hard to imagine a David Thompson Steak Sandwich now but he started cooking at a pub in the eclectic Sydney suburb of Newtown. Despite his non-existent Thai language skills, and his near useless Western cooking techniques, he worked hard to tap into Thailand's past glories and learn as much as he could.

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