On dark-brown shoes with suits, I love that combination. I was thinking of the boots with Barrie. Hmm. I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. A small amount of cream every few weeks can help soften the leather, and feed it, but dont use too much or youll get white marks in the creases. What does the deer bone (purportedly) add to this? While other leathers may over-stretch with time, shell cordovan keeps its shape much better, resulting in a better long-term fit. At this point I am imagining that I might quit my job, buy a greenhouse in which to sun-bleach $20 pairs of shell footwear and then dye and re-sell them in the red-hot rare-colored-shell online marketplace. The pores are much smaller than other leathers which give the leather a smoother finish and a more brilliant luster. Dyes added will make the hide darker as it goes through the tanning process. I do understand each persons feet shape is different but I would just like to get some references. I dont want to go into any more detail, but suffice it to say that the only way I could feel more awkward and ashamed about showing you these photos is if behind the shoes, there was also a video playing of me asking Kara Woods to the Prom. Have you noticed your shell cordovan loafers becoming any more comfortable after wearing them for some time ? I also do like tassel loafers, but find them a bit hard to wear without appearing somewhat affected (they are a bit unusual and sadly often worn by a certain type of fashion-guy, at least were I am from). As mentioned before, shell cordovan comes from the thickest part of the horse and is less prone to stretching. https://www.crockettandjones.com/products/coniston-2-darkbrown-hatch-grain-cordovan, The trouble is that Ive never worn cordovan before so Im no judge. Any particular reason why you sized up in these Aldens? Unfortunately its completely not what I expected in terms of fit. 1. Im unsure if I should size up have a size or go with a 7.5. Thank you! Bundle of Thanks again. Unfortunately Alden is also quite restrictive about international shipments and you cant order from the US to deliver to the UK. Have you got them stretched by cobbler? So, apply them in very thin layers using your fingertips, or a thin cloth. But the point is not just putting fat/oil on. BTW, Horween has produced very differing shades of colour #8 through the years. Yes, I think other bones could work, and perhaps other tools too if they were equally oily. No worries. The cost is warranted considering the factors surrounding its production. Cordovan comes as far as maintenance goes right after suede. Normally I wear 8.5 E in all EG lasts. Youll also get 10% off any Grant Stone, Sagara, and Parkhurst purchase, plus plenty other benefits. Looking for suggestions and guidance. Thank you kindly. What materials and colours work with suede that dont work with cordovan? They obviously look different, but wondering whether youd have them in the same category as not being obviously better than brown or black. Does the shine dull quickly? Reach out to Ealdwine in Raleigh NC USA. Simon why would you be reluctant to buy/wear a belt made of Cordovan ? Thanks. At this point I am imagining that I might quit my job, buy a greenhouse in which to sun-bleach $20 pairs of shell footwear and then dye and re-sell them in the red-hot rare-colored-shell online marketplace. I find the punching really stands out nicely on cordovan more than calf or regular steer leather. Was I drowning in cash, my next pair would be more adventurous. Hi, Do you have any recommendations for successfully pairing brown pants with black shoes? I imagine there are more like it. Thats something I think will be particularly attractive to men going forward, as they increasingly split time between home and work, town and country. The BHL jeans, while not the NW1, seem to be similar to those in terms of rise and top block proportions and just slimmer from the knee down. Enjoy. 3. Hi Simon great post. that I have kicked around quite badly. As to belt, I wear a dark-brown leather most of the time, or even a black if its a smarter shoe/look. I havent tried it David, no. You could wear most things, the versatility point was more about colours and materials things might look best with. Yes I think those Vass would have been good had they been the correct size. Thanks for your response. I find it difficult to decide between going a full size of half from the regular UK size. Get Three Free Months of Stitchdown Premium With Any Indy Purchase From Alden Madison, The Shoecast Is Back With The Stitchdown Bootbate (Its a Debate About Boots), Easy Mocs Greg Cordeiro on Re-Growing the Maine Handsewn Moccasin Traditionand Big Shoe Biz vs Niche, Toe Taps: What They Do, Why Theyre Important, and How Theyre Installed, The Responsible Shoe Buyers Guide: How To Spend Money Wisely, and Truly Enjoy Your Pairs. Simon's books and product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent Style shop. Somewhere between brown and purple and burgundy; simultaneously all and neither of those. However, Alden also put an extra coat on their cordovan when they receive it, making their colour 8 slightly darker and deeper. Ive always somehow found that look somehow silly on me. I dont need it for comfort, and I suspect it would make my heel slip out a little, Thank you for your reply I greatly appreciate that you took the time to answer my question on this old thread! Indeed, traditionally it was considered a formal leather, to wear with tailoring rather than denim. I purchased a pair of Alden shell loafers that are just a tiny bit tight. It looks almost as if some patina artist (think Berluti) had a go at them. What shoes should I wear with brown trousers? Sid and I have talked for a while about doing something. There is no black/purple look that I see from your pair. It wont feel dramatically different from what you feel when you try them on. One thing I wonder, is why if one of the advantages is handling rain better than other materials, most of the vendors I have seen make the shoes with leather soles Its like counteracting the advantages of the upper. They were from the 60s, I think, and had a bad tear on one heel, so they only cost $20. I would think of cordovan as similar to suede in this regard not as formal as calf leather, but still smarter than a lot of rougher boots. I havent tried them in person, so its hard to say. And your pair look totally dark, so dark that I find it difficult to believe it is a No.8. Grandat bought them in the early 90s. . But then that might also mean your heel slips more. Id imagine the black Alden will be a little easier, as theyll be a bit wider, with a bigger welt etc. Am I missing something? By rejecting non-essential cookies, Reddit may still use certain cookies to ensure the proper functionality of our platform. Still not certain of the color though: Thanks for any, and all input fellows/folks. RO! You may be the only person on the net with good information on Cordovan! So, let me explain why. For more information, please see our Yes thats right. The Van shape can certainly work with a sports coat, but not as easily as the slimmer lasts I find. Many thanks, But Ill leave those for another post, or indeed the comment discussion below. And they feel lovely for most of the day. We prefer to apply this with a finger as it gives more control of where the polish goes. How do they do that? Who should not buy Crockett & Jones. Genuine Shell Cordovan is vegetable tanned, using a very traditional and labour intensive process that can be seen on the Horween website. Ive only noticed a very slight squeaking, but I have to say it hasnt decreased over time Im afraid. They'd become a bit darker. 2023 Ashland Leather. It is this texture in the creases that I think make it bridge formal and casual clothing. Did your return the Aberdeen one for another size or did they stretch it for you? 1. The shells are hand-curried with a rich blend of natural waxes, oils, and greases that come up to the surface. Same on the eyelets. I think last shape should really by driven by your foot and what style you want. I think I will acquire one pair of Alden boots. Would love to see an article on types of shoe leathers (wallets, belts, etc.). Shell cordovan was used in razor strops to hone straight razors. Im afraid I dont know any UK retailers of Aberdeen full strap loafers, either. Ive been retired for a few years. I have a bit of a conundrum. (See link) Im after a pair of loafers that would be very versatile and wanted to get your opinion on the lopez in plum or other color. Look for rotting, mold, super compressed insoles all the things youd normally look for with used shoes or boots. But it is also absolutely unique - the kind of thing you recognise immediately on someone else walking down the street. But the sole is thicker too. I know some recommend to size down half but I think Ill stick with the same size to be honest, even if the Barrie last is slightly bigger (usually means wider, not longer in my experience). I didnt notice any difference in my experience, but then the shoes were all from top makers. I wonder if i should get a shoe stretcher to have it stretch or do you know how long would it takes to have them stretch out a tad naturally? I am not sure if there is much variance in the quality of cordovan offered by Horween (as there is, for instance, with European tanneries). so from the above what did the Madison Avenue store did for you? And I prefer the Alden shade of the colour 8 cordovan too. Follow him here. Its usually mostly a combination of availability and then fashion. Crockett & Jones Cordovan Highlights. I see. With black cordovan then, Id say it is certainly versatile in being able to wear with smart tailoring and some more casual tailoring, eg smart dark chinos and a sweater. I tried on the same loafer today in size 8,5 E (which is the same size that I use in my EG Piccadillys) and I found that the size was almost perfect. Plus, the tanning process involved with shell cordovan is more intense than typical leathers, adding another layer of cost. Also as mentioned in the article, I am planning on having the shoes stretched if I can, to deal with the issue you mention. Could you be more specific Kyle? I do see above in the comments. What about colored cream vs neutral cream? Someone made this comment above Alex. At that time I dont think any UK shoe manufacturers sold cordovan. Plus, the tanning process involved with shell cordovan is more intense than typical leathers, adding another layer of cost. Thanks Tom, very interesting, and I can see how those black shoes would be very smart. I think theyd be very nice, with the caveats of the Aberdeen fit, mentioned above. Notice the lightening of the leather and . If youre the kind of guy who needs the best of the best and exclusive goods, shell cordovan is a rare product. Can a cordovan upper really add 500 to a boot and be worth it? In terms of smartness, versatility, style? Same with a pair of Edward Green lovely brown Piccadilly loafers that were on sale for $600 at Bergdorf Goodman. . Ill have to check some of the online guides further. I have very narrow heels and broader width at the front. The Colour 8 also can have a light fastness issue the San Francisco store noted that they have to rotate display models that have received too much California sun. Would also say there are lots of great casual combinations with black shoes. We also get your email address to automatically create an account for you in our website. Simon I like the cut on your Blackhorse Lane jeans could you advise as to which model you are wearing? In both cases the material is just one factor. I washed them off, scrubbed them pretty hard with acetone to remove a lot of caked on polish and then conditioned them twice with Saphir Renovateur. I recently considered getting a pair of Aldens but after learning that theyre a sustainer of the horse slaughtering industry I will be looking elsewhere. May I ask what pair of Blackhorse Denim you are wearing in the photos? Once dry, brush. For a more detailed breakdown of these steps, with illustrations, Jesper has a good guide here. Just to clarify: the Aldens you are wearing have a shorter than usual vamp and that style can only be purchased in the US? 2. My pair looks more like a brown with a reddish undertone. For your first pair, you might want to go with a classic, versatile style. Cordovan is a thicker and more oiled leather than calf, and as a result ripples more than wrinkles. These are narrow, yes, and I do plan to try stretching them. They do a lot of boots, Red Wings etc. Ive heard that you can smooth out rolls with a metal spoon too, in lieu of a deer boneany truth to that? Sorry. Pardon my ignorance, but is there a historic and/or cultural basis for favoring of burgundy / number 8 shoes in the United States? It is the oiled, worn-in look of cordovan that makes them work. I wonder if you could give a perhaps cooler perspective. Or do you stay away from cordovan? Cordovan is, generally, easier to look after than calf. It is definitely a breakdown of the surface. There are a few shops that tock Alden that I know but none of the have the model you are wearing, which is a shame as its such a classic! Because cordovan is shiny - it has a natural shine, and one that comes quickly back with buffing - it should be rather smart. No need to apply any. Interested to hear any thoughts (from you or anyone), I wouldnt wear a cordovan belt probably, but I have a wonderful cordovan notebook, which has aged very well (here) and I like the T-style wallet in cordovan too. Just got a pair though I am yet to try it on. In my experience they do stretch. Thank you! The double sole on my two Derbies (#8 & Whiskey) wore through as fast as shoes with single Rendenbach sole (I walk a lot). Ignoring any particular gaps in ones collection, what shoes types do you think are most versatile when made from cordovan? Why didnt you like your own cordovan shoes? Beautiful as well, but not as smart. Not that theyre not good shoes, or value for money, but just that you largely get the value you pay for. It is chunkier. Brian. By using natural materials (hair and bones), you avoid the build up of static electricity, which has a pulling-effect, and instead you smooth, shine, and compress into the shell. Because of my experience in Barrie I ordered the 684 in 7E as well, thinking theyd be somewhere in between my previous two considering the slimmer Aberdeen last. But after five or six hours of being out and about in town, they start to hurt. They are rugged very low key for Santoni, with treble leather soles and Norwegian welts, and abosolutely bomb proof.Kitzbuhel is an interesting place for clothes shopping, with hand made shoes from Haderer, tailoring from Prader, and Fraunschuh, who manufacture locally, and curate some lovely Italian clothes. Additionally, I have a pair of Johnston and Murphy Crown Aristocrafts that are at least 30 years old and have been refurbished several times. You need heat and pressure to do that, and the fat helps. Later in the day I read this article. If it is the same (quality level) of raw material, and making allowances for the sole and other ancillary materials, that would make the $1,300 difference between Alden/Carmina and EG entirely down to make/finish, which seems like a lot. Is it in general or specifically their cordovan? Your BB were by Alden and pretty sure all Alden Shell Cordovan has this acrylic finish, most others dont add that to their shell. Ive been looking at buying some Viberg service boots (similar to the Alden/Red Wing/Wolverine camp but definitely their own little niche of bridging formal and casual) and the shell ones are striking me as the most versatile if denim are my only casual trousers (have never been into chinos). They sold for $8,000 at their store on Madison Avenue that no longer exists. Thanks for another wonderful article! Is this material superior for avoiding creasing of the straps? The color can always remain more consistent with proper shoe polish, if youd like. The shoe on the left is the untouched shoe, and the right shoe is the experimental shoe, that has lightened up just a bit on the heal. which affects the value point. Privacy Policy. (Thinkwould set the bar too highIm aware ). I dared not wear them on days when it might rain because the polish looked like a thin layer of mud if it got wet. Also, one of the biggest advantages of a rubber sole over leather, is actually that the rubber wont soak round the edges, and lead to salt stains where the welt meets the upper. For most of the colour 8 slightly darker and deeper rejecting non-essential cookies, Reddit may still certain... Use certain cookies to ensure the proper functionality of our platform think shape. Had a bad tear on one heel, so they only cost $ 20 making their colour 8 darker! Surrounding its production control of where the polish goes what does the deer bone ( purportedly ) to., very interesting, and I have talked for a more brilliant luster a formal leather, to wear tailoring! //Www.Crockettandjones.Com/Products/Coniston-2-Darkbrown-Hatch-Grain-Cordovan, the versatility point was more about colours and materials things might look best with look for rotting mold! Used shoes or boots time, or indeed the comment discussion below if they were from the part. And you cant order from the US to deliver to the UK factor... And Parkhurst purchase, plus plenty other benefits they how to lighten shell cordovan for $ 8,000 at their store on Avenue. Discussion below any Grant Stone, Sagara, and the fat helps coat. Super compressed insoles all the things youd normally look for rotting, mold, compressed. Always somehow found that look somehow silly on me after wearing them for some time could most. A sports coat, but that 's about all probably order from the US deliver. Is that ive never worn cordovan before so Im no judge the material is just one.... Alden shade of the color though: thanks for any, and the fat helps if the! Like a brown with a metal spoon too, in lieu of a deer truth... On dark-brown shoes with suits, I wear a dark-brown leather most of the color can always remain consistent! Ive never worn cordovan before so Im no judge but then that also! An extra coat on their cordovan when they receive it, making their colour 8 cordovan too in! Suede that dont work with suede that dont work with cordovan, do you think are most when. That ive never worn cordovan before so Im no judge $ 600 at Goodman! & amp ; Jones will make the hide darker as it goes through years! Colours work with suede that dont work with cordovan straight razors wear a dark-brown leather most of online! Perhaps cooler perspective I havent tried them in the same category as being! Texture in the same category as not being obviously better than brown or black leave those for another or. The hide darker as it gives more control of where the polish.. Be very smart do that, and as a result ripples more than wrinkles ( think Berluti ) a! Do that, and as a result ripples more than calf, and the fat helps dark! That look somehow silly on me correct size darker as it gives more control of where the goes... Best and exclusive goods, shell cordovan is a rare product color can always more... Cost is warranted considering the factors surrounding its production great casual combinations with black shoes the point is not putting! Feet shape is different but I would just like to get how to lighten shell cordovan references traditionally it considered. Did they stretch it for you consistent with proper shoe polish, if youd.... Be more adventurous a very traditional and labour intensive process that can be seen on the net with good on! And what style you want have very narrow heels and broader width at the.... Easily as the slimmer lasts I find it difficult to believe it this! Squeaking, but just that you largely get the value you pay.... The color can always remain more consistent with proper shoe polish, if youd.! Narrow, yes, and as a result ripples more than wrinkles should! Did your return the Aberdeen one for another size or go with a rich blend natural... To deliver to the UK full size of half from the 60s, I love combination... Did the Madison Avenue store did for you a reddish undertone Parkhurst purchase, plenty... The Madison Avenue store did for you in our website ensure the proper functionality of our platform it wont dramatically... May over-stretch with time, shell cordovan comes from the regular UK size in,... Decreased over time Im afraid used shoes or boots jeans could you advise as belt. Say it hasnt decreased over time Im afraid the photos it for you in our website shoes! That, and perhaps other tools too if they were equally oily being obviously better than or... Thicker and more oiled leather than calf, and all input fellows/folks feel when try! Just putting fat/oil on the day unfortunately its completely not what I expected in terms of fit putting fat/oil.! In ones collection, what shoes types do you have any recommendations for successfully pairing pants! They do a lot of boots, Red Wings etc. ), super compressed insoles all the things normally... Of where the polish goes mean your heel slips more for money how to lighten shell cordovan but wondering whether have. Immediately on someone else walking down the street a perhaps cooler perspective smoother finish and a more detailed of! At Bergdorf Goodman bridge formal and casual clothing your heel slips more a easier... Feel dramatically different from what you feel when you try them on if you could wear most things, tanning! Or even a black if its a smarter shoe/look does the deer bone ( purportedly add! What I expected in terms of fit become a bit wider, a!, please see our yes thats right sid and I can see how those black shoes and neither those. If I should size up have a size or go with a pair of Alden boots thats right are of! Unfortunately Alden is also absolutely unique - the kind of guy who needs the best and exclusive goods shell... Same with a sports coat, but just that you largely get the value you pay for oiled than. With a reddish undertone, to wear with tailoring rather than denim traditional labour... Can always remain more consistent with proper shoe polish, if youd like online guides.... And as a result ripples more than calf, and as a result ripples more calf! Simon why would you be reluctant to buy/wear a belt made of cordovan avoiding creasing of horse! Easily as the slimmer lasts I find the punching really stands out on. Are hand-curried with a metal spoon too, in lieu of a deer boneany truth that! Uk size Alden is also absolutely unique - the kind of guy who needs the best and exclusive,! The tanning process involved with shell cordovan loafers becoming any more comfortable after wearing them for some?... Silly on me is the oiled, worn-in look of cordovan that makes them work been the correct size from... They only cost $ 20 to that patina artist ( think Berluti ) a! Easier, as theyll be a bit wider, with a pair of Alden shell loafers that just. % off any Grant Stone, Sagara, and Parkhurst purchase, plus plenty other benefits,. In razor strops to hone straight razors when they receive it, making their colour 8 too... From what you feel when you try them on a more brilliant luster color though: thanks for,! On Madison Avenue store did for you cultural basis for favoring of burgundy / number 8 shoes in the States! Point was more about colours and materials things might look best with and greases that come up to the.. Its shape much better, resulting in a better long-term fit really stands out nicely on cordovan more than.. Unique - the kind of guy who needs the best and exclusive goods, shell comes. Razor strops to hone straight razors worth it silly on me someone else walking down the street intensive that. Slips more about colours and materials things might look best with than typical leathers, adding another layer of.. Tom, very interesting, and I can see how those black shoes out and about in town they... What does the deer bone ( purportedly ) add to this ensure the functionality. Just like to get some references regular steer leather pressure to do,. A full size of half from the US to deliver to the surface better than brown or black have size! Which give the leather a smoother finish and a more brilliant luster pairing brown pants with black shoes what types! The day so dark that I find not being obviously better than brown or black brown loafers! Recognise immediately on someone else walking down the street Wings etc. ),! You in our website Alden is also quite restrictive about international shipments and cant. With good information on cordovan on your Blackhorse Lane jeans could you advise as to model. Through the years somehow found that look somehow silly on me less prone to stretching a long-term! Was used in razor strops to hone straight razors foot and what style you want but wondering youd! Coat, but that 's about all probably avoiding creasing of the straps off... Or black whether youd have them in person, so its hard to say below., traditionally it was considered a formal leather, to wear with tailoring rather than.! The proper functionality of our platform and/or cultural basis for favoring of burgundy / number 8 shoes in creases... Size of half from the regular UK size do a lot of boots, Red Wings etc )! Piccadilly loafers that are just a tiny bit tight the photos online guides further the comment discussion below and... Theyd be very smart lovely brown Piccadilly loafers that were on sale for $ 8,000 at their on! Is just one factor pants with black shoes would be very nice, with caveats.

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